Universal Geneve
- Josh
- Jan 5
- 5 min read
Okay, it's been a little while. A lot has happened since my last post, admittedly it has been a few years now- although my passion is still very much here. The collection has grown and shrunk. I have dabbled in the world of independent watchmaking and have been fortunate enough to have acquired a Patek Philippe as well as an Audemars Piguet, but most of all, importantly gained knowledge through further experience. Don't ask me why I have not posted on here, I don't really know why if I am honest- I guess my IG is my main channel and source, but trust me, plenty of things have happened and are... happening. I am now married and also expecting my first child in April!
Universal Geneve, maybe you are wondering why this is the title of this particular article, or maybe not?
I felt this would be an appropriate topic and brand to highlight as it now really encompasses a large part of my collection, as well as recently announcing its long awaited revival. Since the last few years have gone by, I have acquired quite a few pieces from Universal, by complete chance, we go back exactly 3 years to the day- I purchased my first UG, from an IG follower Byitscover. He had a gorgeous Polerouter ref 204607/4 slate dial. I had done my homework and watched a few videos on Youtube, I was ready to add a Polerouter to my collection. Following a pleasant exchange and introduction on Watsapp, he sent me a few images and some information. The rest is history, I received the watch a few days later and immediately fell in love. I cannot pin point exactly what it is, the Polerouter just has a charm I just really connect with.
And so the journey with UG began, throughout my time so far collecting, I have always been drawn to aesthetics and ergonomics (I guess that counts for most of us). However, when you can also draw lines and links between other passions and interests it really excites the collector inside of me. The story and birth of the Polerouter goes back to the 50's when SAS (Scandanavian Airlines) commissioned a time piece for its flight crew to wear when operating the pioneering routes that crossed the North Pole from Scandinavia to the US. These Great Circle routes required timepieces to incorporate anti magnetic properties as well as other technological advancements to ensure time keeping accuracy. The earliest references were labelled the ''Polarouters'', utilising the 138SS bumper movement. This was before the famous micro-rotor calibres were used in later variants.
The design was an early masterpiece, concieved by no other than Gerald Genta. A very well known name in the world of horology, for all of the right reasons. It is incredible to have the opportunity to handle and witness his early designs, knowing now what he went on to do with the likes of the Nautilus and Royal Oak, both in their own right legends of more recent watchmaking feats.
It wasn't long before I fell down the rabbit hole, found myself trawling through online articles and Adam Hamblar's Polerouter reference website- which I confess is effectively the bible when it comes to reference tables, galleries and articles. The information found there is my go to for anything Polerouter related. This also brings me on to mention the UG community, I have been collecting watches now for 10 years and never have I come across a community so supportive and helpful. I have not yet discovered a bad apple that is seriously into the world of Universal.
The next acquisition came in the form of a gorgeous 104601/2, a stunning yellow gold date execution, once again from Byitscover. The condition was excellent and I felt it really complimented its slate dialled brother, this reference holds a dressier aesthetic, and my wife takes a particular liking to it.
Since back then in 2022, I have also strayed further into the world of UG and beyond the Polerouter, although I will always hold this model close to my collector heart. It came at a time when I really wanted a chronograph, Nina's and Evil Nina's were unfortunately out of my budget at the time. That is when I stumbled across the reference 222101/1, it popped up on my IG feed one day and it really got me excited. This reference however was pretty hard to find- let alone one in a decent condition. And then one day, out of nowhere guess who decides to put one up for sale... Byitscover... Instantaneously I reached out and in my excitement, at the time I also showed my wife- seeking approval. After some conversation I reached the conclusion that the asking price was just too far out of my budget. I left it there, and had that awful feeling I am sure some of you have had, that I really had let one go.
Fast forward a few weeks later, just before my birthday. My wife and I were enjoying a summer evening drink outside on our patio, she had a certain smugness about her. I think I had bought up the watch in question again, I must confess we are absolutely useless at keeping surprises for each other. I guess you can figure out what happened next. In absolute disbelief she handed me a black plastic box, I was shaking. Popped it open and there it was, in all its glory a stunning Compax reference 222101/1. A gorgeous lyre lugged case, perfectly proportioned 36mm case with blued hands and tachymeter scale. Honestly for me, this Compax out of all that UG produced takes the win.
Watches always mean more to me when they can tell a story, provoke a memory or allow you to share the passion with someone. Its fair to say my UG collecting hasn't stopped there, I was lucky enough to wear a gorgeous rose gold Calatrava on my wedding day. Once again, a gift from my wife and a piece I have had recently engraved with the date of our wedding to forever hold onto as a lasting memory of our special day.
And it hasn't stopped there, I am always scouring the web and IG for examples up for sale, most recently however I discovered a rather rare treasure here in Lisbon. It was in a small jewellers, a family run business that don't particularly push their marketing beyond the storefront itself. I had heard of the ''Cioccolatone'' through an article published by Marcus Siems on Goldammer.me, a rather unusual looking reference that gets its name from the square chocolate and the aptly named ''Square Polerouter''. I had also more recently watched a video on Youtube from Hodinkee featuring Alessandro aka Mr.A (another great source of knowledge), this particular episode also featured a square shaped ''Polerouter'' as part of Alessandro's collection, further provoking my intrigue into this particular unusual reference. It just so happened that a few weeks later I had discovered a very early reference 10237/1 in Lisbon.
We were at the hospital, a routine checkup during my wife's pregnancy, I asked if I could sneak off while we waited, to go and find this jewellers that had this little treasure up for sale. An hour later I was back with a ''Cioccolatone'', after inspection it was in a fantastic condition given its age (1956ish) and apparently it came from the first owner who's estate was sold off relatively recently. The bumper movement in good condition, dial pretty flawless and case very sharp (even retaining the reference and sharp hallmarks on the case). Loses about 10mins a day, but I couldn't care less, its a thing of beauty and such a unique design.
So where next? Who knows. One day maybe a Nina Rindt or a Clapton, I don't know. However I can say I really feel attached to this brand and really hope its revival is a success. Its heritage is rich and designs iconic, I cannot wait to make more memories with it in the collection.
Thanks for reading, cheers, Josh.
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